wren industries silent partnerwooden frame mirror full length

I occasionally use my soloist for leading and for top roping and it works a lot better than guessing how much rope to let out between knots, and any fall you take will probabbly be shorter with some device. --RCB. Yes, am very fond of mine also and not ready to part with it. As long as you stay tied into the end of the rope, and the fall is clean I don't bother with it. Very high amount of bids. If you worry about having to feed out a bunch of slack to free a section when using a clove just treat it like a runoutplace good gear (double up, equalize, whatever you need) find the next rest/stance and gun for it. 483+ items sold. FYI, that last comment was mine, using a friends computer ooops. Thats kind of one thing that pisses me off about the thing. The first two pitches are free so that makes things interesting, but of course you can use aid on them. I have used a soloist before, but before i spend the bucks want to get some opinions thanks. As a self-belay device - a device purpose-designed for rope-solo climbing on lead - the Silent Partner uses a centrifugal clutch to stop a fall. The Silent Partner comes with an extensive instruction manual. After reading the instuction manual, I like the way it works gently with the rope on a clove hitch locking concept. Hello I'm thinking about selling my pride and much joy, my wren industries silent partner I've only just seen they aren't made anymore. Good beta, dude. On 27th July Finlay Wild broke his own Tranter's Round record, finishing in a time of 8hrs 52 minutes. All Rights Reserved. A final thoughtsoloing is hard,hard,hard work on a wall, try something short before becoming that gumby on the fourth pitch of Prodgial Sun on their third on the routethat gumby was me and while I did finish that day and have excuses because of slow teams in front of me, bad beta on my topo, etcthe real limiting factor was my inefficient hauling and leading. Climb at your own risk. Your fingers would just get shredded. My primary criticism of the soloaid is the outcome of a fall while hand feeding. Two Days in and Around and On The Flake. However, if you are backtied like you should be, it helps the rope feed itself with less manual intervention, and you don't need to worry about going to the deck. Condition: Used, Condition: As new - only used once, Brand: Wren Industries, Sub-Type: Belay, Country/Region of Manufacture: United States Thanks again for stopping by. Photos | Articles [5 of 5], A Winter Traverse of the California section of the PCT Part 8, Balch Fest 2013. I used it while opening the first solo new route on La Esfinge (The Sphinx), I fell twice and it did stop me gently. The fact that an upside-down fall would send you flying to the ground unhindered makes me a little bit scared. Have you tried rope solo it's amazing what you can achieve but its interesting to hear the talk like owning a classic car, Wow I've never heard anyone's case of a real fall it's unremarkable after but the excitement is real at the time, That's the thing with the sp you can fall off an overhang head first and the sp will still work unlike some other device, The world of aid climbing is a strange one I never used pegs just clean up to c4, Never bothered with the modification, but did used back up knots, as also recommended by SP, Must admit most of the time I didn't use back up knots not good I know however I did on Yosemite always but that was aid not free free climbing I used a rope bag and a big stopper knot. if you put a piece of tie off through it when you close it will work as good. On the other hand, if your looking for a nice device to top-rope solo, my Soloist's for sale. Thanks for the offer on the soloist, but my main goal for the device is aid climbin'. Again, though- dangerous for aid climbing cause the rope will feed all too well in an upside down fall. more likely to get that burr chewing rope. Any thoughts? If you plan on free-climbing trad routes, you sick bastard, just call meyou're the kind of partner I'm always looking for, hopefully you like squeeze chimneys too. UKClimbing Limited. 1 sold, 0 available. copyrighted, dedicated to the public domain by copyright holder, released into the public domain by the copyright holder, https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Wren_Industries_Silent_Partner.jpg, {{BotMoveToCommons|en.wikipedia|year={{subst:CURRENTYEAR}}|month={{subst:CURRENTMONTHNAME}}|day={{subst:CURRENTDAY}}}} {{Information |Description={{en|Alan Silva 2004 Collection Wren Industries 2004 Silent Partner}} |Source=Transferred from [http://en.wi, Flash did not fire, compulsory flash suppression. You can help our automatic cover photo selection by reporting an unsuitable photo. but just asking your opinion. The Silent Partner sounds like the best overall device for either aid or free but screw that $225 pricetag. After using all five of these methods (clove, gri-gri, silent partner, solist, solo-aid) I say go do a multi-pitch aid climb solo with a clove, then decide how much you really want to be soloingif you love it buy the S.P., if not just clove it. You are the salt of the earthYou are the light of the world Silent Partner self belay device Wren Industries - Mark Blanchard - Rock Exotica, Silent Partner self belay device Wren Industries - Mark Blanchard - Rock Exotica 2, Silent Partner self belay device Wren Industries - Mark Blanchard - Rock Exotica 3. Also any device you may think has the same, or equivelant properties offered by wren. Climbing with my old 10.5 is a nightmare, when I switched to a new 10.2 it feeds smooth. Silent Partner self belay device by Wren Industries (Rock Exotica) The Silent Partner was created by Mark Blanchard and the patent was granted in 1989. Around 2008, Wren Industries was sold and the new owners were not interested in producing self-belay devices. The Silent partner is bigger than you'd expect, and a little pricey at $225, but if you're wall climbing in the first place you've got a few grand invested in gear alreadybite the bullet and buy it, nothing else comes close for mixed aid and free (self-feeding, holding any fall,etc). rr666, May 9, 2001 in The Gear Critic. Choice of rope makes a huge difference on how it feeds. Climbing Alaska. I'm looking for the ultimate self belay device. I was thinking that this was just a fairly transparent attempt to advertise it for sale without buying a premier post but there does seem to be an appetite for the discussion. This is one that depends alot on your own level of comfort. Beckwith also only suggests modifying the grigri (sawing off the flap and filing it down) if you intend to solo-free with it, and in this case you would also run it through a chest harness. I haven't used the silent partner (due to cost), but it would be my first choice. Copyright 2008-2022 PicClick Inc. All Rights Reserved. The rope is tied around a drum via a clove hitch. After I figured it out, I am pretty happy with it. Hey bud - just a heads up if you do sell it don't let it go cheap - they're going on ebay for 300+ from what I've seen. Links | Terms | Privacy | FAQ | Contact but the grigri is the most cost effective/easy way to solo. Rock Exotica handled the manufacturing until Wren Industries took over production in the late '90s. Original file (1,600 1,200 pixels, file size: 374 KB, MIME type: image/jpeg). I've always backed it up anyway. 1. A good aid solo is Town Crier at Index. Copyright 2017 CascadeClimbers.com It requires a strong understanding of advanced rigging techniques. Actually, you can even go the old old school route and just use two clove hitches and dispense with the mechanical devices altogethercosts you nothing. Before buying one at 100 would like some feedback from anyone who may have used this device for self belay. If you needed slack in a panic, pull the cord. It is big and quite bulky to use; and while free climbing the rope does not run as good as anybody would patiently hope. If the file has been modified from its original state, some details may not fully reflect the modified file. So every so often you prussick a loop of bungy cord to your rope and hang on the runner to keep the weight of the rope held up , if you fall off this bungy moves with the rope and allows the rope to do it's job unhindered, The flaff is worth it when climbing loose rock for me safer for my second not to be underneath however yes mainly aid climbing is worth the set up time. Highlights of ownership so far, are successful ascent of Kilnsey Main Overhang and being caught by it on Many Happy Returns,Anglezarke after the nut I was clean aiding on, parted company from the loose block it was placed adjacent to. It still scares the heck out of me to fall on it, so I generally use it on easy climbs. Silent Partner self belay device by Wren Industries (Rock Exotica) The Silent Partner was created by Mark Blanchard and the patent was granted in 1989. But I feel really comfortable solo-aiding with this system and it isn't a pain in the ass once you get it dialed. Silent Partner self belay device Wren Industries - Mark Blanchard - Rock Exotica. I recently acquired one and am looking forward to getting to grips with it on some of the multi-pitch stuff here in Japan this spring. All rights reserved. I have used my soloist a little, and frankly I don't trust it much. If you don't want to shell out the cash and you won't be casting off on free climbing leads just use a clove hitch. This browser is not supported by Wikiwand :( Wikiwand requires a browser with modern capabilities in order to provide you with the best reading experience.Please download and use one of the following browsers: An extension you use may be preventing Wikiwand articles from loading properly. Is that a cut off Grigri adapted for rope solo ? Keep in mind though, if you whip from high on a pitch and the pro all pulls (a distinct possibility while aiding hard stuff) or if you whip low on a pitch (even if the pro holds)and the device does not lock up you're looking at a huge fall of 165-400 ft, and you'll load the anchor pretty hard. For aid I found a grigri smaller and easier to manage. I've got a Soloist - doesn't work badly for top-roping - but I wouldn't use it for leading. I did a lot of research on solo aid devices awhile back, and determined that the grigri I already owned was essentially the same device as the solo aid or soloist. If you intend to solo wall routes you've got two options (IMO) Clove hitch or Silent Partner. and should always back it up. Rock Climbing Sierra 0% negative feedback. This is the third time he has broken the record on the Lochaber round, having done so previously in2020 and2016. At that time, Rock Exotica took over production of the Silent Partner once again. Super high amount watching. Or you could get back to the point of soling anyways and just free solo - aside from shoes and a chalkbag, maybe a rap line, you don't really need much other gear. If you intend to self-belay on top-rope they all work ok, but since I already have a gri-gri I just use it, UNMODIFIED. Climbing is dangerous. i would recommend not sawing off the flap on the grigri. I also did some research on the web; Nate Beckwith suggests, for a Grigri, to let it hang from your belay biner w/o using a chest harness if you are aiding; it will definitely need to be hand-fed but is more likely to catch an upside down fall also. Click on a date/time to view the file as it appeared at that time. I talked to Wren Industries and they highly recommend backtying with the soloist and solo aid, and the soloist (I think that's the cheaper one) won't catch an upside down fall. The clove is free (you've already got a big locker), will hold anything, and is about the same pain in the ass as a soloist or solo-aidaid climbing is a collosal pain in the ass anyway, get used to it. I used a loop of 4mm cord (NOT larger) around the rope just above the cam on the load side. Make me an offer. 3. The device is totally CNC machined from aerospace alloys no castings are used. I bought and used the thing to find out that it does not works as good as the manufacturer says. At that time, Rock Exotica took over production of the Silent Partner once again. By I think the manufacturers are trying to cover their rear more than anything. I feel more comfortable free soloing a 5.2, than I do soloing a 5.8 with a soloist. Messages 1 - 17 of total 17 in this topic, Yosemite Valley, California USA, Apr 30, 2019, Yosemite Valley, California USA, Apr 18, 2019, Yosemite Valley, California USA, Apr 17, 2019, Yosemite Valley, California USA, Mar 31, 2019, http://www.spadout.com/p/wren-silent-partner/, http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=230326929288&ssPageName=ADME:B:SS:US:1123, http://www.mountaingear.com/pages/product/product.asp/item/614220/N/0/afl/430/CMP/KNC-70110/cmpn/70110, The Kohala Ditch Trail: 36ish hrs on foot to and from the headwaters. dangling off a wind turbine in a town near you. 2006-2018 SummitPost.org. Ships to: GB & many other countries, The drum spins freely in either direction, feeding rope as the knot slips, until a certain speed is reached, which locks the device.https://www.rockexotica.com/silent-partner/This Silent Partner is listed for sale elsewhere so the auction may be ended early. Out of those devices I would definitely choose the silent partner. With both I think you have to hand feed it. One question for willstrickland: do you back up your silent partner with a clove-hitch. You can show your support and will receive rewards. I also had Yosemite ambitions but alas, I wasn't up to it. 2. Please help UKHillwalking continue to provide varied and free content by becoming an official UKH Supporter. Around 2008, Wren Industries was sold and the new owners were not interested in producing self-belay devices. Is that just for liability sake or what. {{::lang.NameEnglish}} - {{::lang.NameNative}}, {{::mainImage.info.license.name || 'Unknown'}}, {{current.info.license.usageTerms || current.info.license.name || current.info.license.detected || 'Unknown'}}, Uploaded by: {{current.info.uploadUser}} on {{current.info.uploadDate | date:'mediumDate'}}. For free climbing I found in the UK the faff of setting up suitable anchorsetc etc for relatively short routes not worth the effort and I usually go with a partner. Your input will affect cover photo selection, along with input from other users. But good to experiment on. Don't buy one. Would you like to suggest this photo as the cover photo for this article? If you use it in the official manner, backed up and all, there is a lot to learn and get used to. Let us know! So if you have a grigri already I think you'd be wasting your money on the soloist or solo-aid. It sounds like you've covered a hell of a lot of ground with yours, Luke Do you have any useful tips you've picked up through practice? If you're using HTTPS Everywhere or you're unable to access any article on Wikiwand, please consider switching to HTTPS (https://www.wikiwand.com). Got feedback? Topos | Guidebooks | Route And there's a ton of fixed gear on that route with nothing too hard and its very straight forward and not too long. Used, not heavily, usual dings from being trucked around. Add a one-line explanation of what this file represents. Sign up for a new account in our community. I have been advised that the wren silent partner is by far the best for the job. Quite frankly, a French guy very closely associated with a French manufacturer of caving and climbing equipment suggested the modification. If you don't have the caution to take up the slack continously you probably shouldn't be soloing in the first placeor you should be willing the free-solo the route. Powered by Invision Community. I have had this for about a year now. I do not think it worths the price the retailer asks for. even tho I only use mine 1x/yr recently I'm not going to sell it. How can we improve SuperTopo? Great seller with very good positive feedback and over 50 ratings. Guess you'd have to ask Wren or Mark Blanchard. The literature says that a climber shouldn't depend on it to hold a fall!? Seriously though, the silent partner is the only thing that does what you really needself feeds smoothly, catches anything. Note however that the SP is said not to work below freezing. Big Wall Rock Climbing Yosemite | It's easy! The bulk never bothered me i guess in the end if you use a system enough it becomes part of you the thing I like about sp is I trust it with my life, I must admit flying through the air half way up Yosemite I did wonder if my so would call me a rescue helicopter if I got injured but never doubt the ability of the device the Revo sounds exciting I'd still use my sp over it however I like nexus phones and can't use iPhones so guess I'm an old fashioned. Item: 113375105101 With my set up including bungy cord to hold the weight of the rope and back up knots etc, I found apart from the fact solo climbing is not safe in terms of rescue etc, this system works better than some climbing partners if experienced, Just interested is there a silent partner fan club who else loves their mechanical device and would you part with yours. I sold it as soon as I got back. From some other readings it sounds like it works, but is not as smooth as the silent partner. I've used a soloist and found the rope drag and inability to traverse exceptionally frustrating. An extension you use may be preventing Wikiwand articles from loading properly. Please help UKClimbing continue to provide varied and free content by becoming a UKC Supporter, or UKC Supporter Plus which Finally, I also adjusted a GriGri by drilling the hole and filing off the v shaped flap as mentioned in a posting above. Has anyone used the solo-aid? Home | Climbing Areas | Free This is not a device for novice climbers. Thanks for posting, this must be an original subject I'd have thought. Thanks for visiting Cascadeclimbers.com. I solo semi-often, usually while aid climbing and have soloed a couple of walls in Zion. 9 watchers, 1.3 new watchers per day, 7 days for sale on eBay. Seller: pamlai (483) 100%, Please click the "Downloads" icon in the Safari toolbar, open the first download in the list. The knowledge that it will only catch certain falls also tends to limit your confidence when really pushing. If you are using an Ad-Blocker, it might have mistakenly blocked our content. I mean whats the point if you're not going to trust it to hold a fall. Still, you need to backtie. Rock Climbing Tahoe | See More. The mechanism is essentially the same thing that's inside your car's seatbelt (a centrifugal clutch) and there aren't any "Warning: Strap your ass to the dashboard in case the seatbelt fails" stickers on your car. The Official Trip Report, Topic Author's Original Post - Nov 8, 2008 - 09:35pm PT. plus when you saw off the flap it changes the grigri forever. Cover photo is available under {{::mainImage.info.license.name || 'Unknown'}} license. Rock Exotica handled the manufacturing until Wren Industries took over production in the late '90s. I also used a soloaid until somebody decided to break into my home and rid me of my entire rack. The drum spins freely in either direction, feeding rope as the knot slips, until a certain speed is reached, which locks the device.https://www.rockexotica.com/silent-partner/This Silent Partner is listed for sale elsewhere so the auction may be ended early. When the GriGri is used in that configuration (with a chest harness), a fall with the rope feeding to the climbers right will cause the rope to load across the knife edge like piece of metal leading up to the handle. the biggest factor is what are you going to use it for? I would much rather free solo the 5.2 than rope solo a 5.8. Rock Climbing Southwest | Fine Corinthian Leather. All rights reserved. As a self-belay device - a device purpose-designed for rope-solo climbing on lead - the Silent Partner uses a centrifugal clutch to stop a fall. The following pages on the English Wikipedia use this file (pages on other projects are not listed): (1,600 1,200 pixels, file size: 374 KB, MIME type: Commons is a freely licensed media file repository. It is nice not to worry about that with the Silent Partner. there's also, for the grigri, the method of drilling a small hole through it near the p in "Petzl" (don't hold me to that, I can't remember right off) and then attaching a tie-off (I think this may be what Erik is talking about) and clipping the tie off to your chest harness to keep the gri gri upright; again, though, more than one person in the know says that is not recommended as it increases the likelihood of the rope not catching while upside down. You will need to temporarily disable your Ad-blocker to view this page. I'm unsure if the clutch fails or it hates frozen ropes. You replace it with an eye-screw of the same sizeviola a place to rig a keeper loop so you don't drop the fucker when taking it off the rope (not good 1800' up an A3+)The reality is that you'll be reeling in all the slack every move or two and any fall you take will load the system almost immediatelyeliminating the head-first scenario. Location: Bodorgan, Isle of Anglesey, GB, I'd be fast too, get it sold before the revo comes on the market and makes it obsolete. Rock Climbing Zion | "The blind climber talks about gear because he can't see the mountains." It is secure and easy to unlock. It takes a while to learn how to use it. I've climbed el cap with mine only ever taken one 5 meter fall while aid climbing on el cap Yosemite, A soft fall and reinforced my confidence in the device so much so I used it later in the UK to climb new routes and loose rock routes too. However, if you want to get some climbing in when your partners can't, I would not recommend climbing roped. Rock Climbing Red Rocks | includes discounted products from Rockfax. My fall was relatively small, but I walked away cursing myself for being so stupid as to not realize that possibility in the first place. UKClimbing Limited. Still the same old community of climbers, skiers, and people who love to get outdoors. Rock Climbing Tuolumne | This is simple. Give good old Wikipedia a great new look: This article was just edited, click to reload, This article has been deleted on Wikipedia (. I have a friend that took a upside down fall on a soloist (didn't lock up) and got hurt. Yep, we are still going! If it's wet, icy, muddy, or if the fall has groundfall, pendulum into a corner, or ledgefall potential I'll usually tie in short a few times along the pitch, just like you would while jumaring. you can also use it to speed up a party of 3 on a multi pitch climb as the first 2 climb normally, trailing and fixing a second rope for the third to come up on (top)self belayed. Beta | Forum | Trip Reports | Or stick to aid and get the solo-aid. | About Us, Climbing AreasRock Climbing Yosemite | Hope you had a great 2021, and wish you the best for 2022 and beyond. For faster navigation, this Iframe is preloading the Wikiwand page for, Note: preferences and languages are saved separately in https mode. This file contains additional information, probably added from the digital camera or scanner used to create or digitize it. Silent Partner self belay device Wren Industries - Mark Blanchard - Rock Exotica. It would be nice to get by with only spending $80 instead of $225, but I would much rather be safe and comfortable than cheap and dead. Just a matter of deciding what you will be using it for. but the as w said, the most important thing is to rememeber to back tie all soloist devices. The only mod I've made to a gri-gri is to replace the tiny screw (non-structural)on the outside that holds the plastic plate. The rope is tied around a drum via a clove hitch. That's the one that's no longer there, caused by an unrelated event, although gravity had been tugging on it for years. Hi Tony ok no pictures I'm afraid but it's simple, As you start climbing up with the rope from the bottom belay upto your sp on your body with the slack still on the ground as you gain height the rope wants to slip back down to the ground and isn't tight on your runners this means a lot of slack rope adding to your fall length. Like any device it must be backed up never trust your life to a single tool. Total death on a stick. Just put a new coat of paint on the site. Larger cord will compromise its ability to hold falls. You need to be a member in order to leave a comment. If you wanna solo lead shell out the $$$ for the Silent Partner. > Where is it possible to buy one of these? http://www.barrabes.com/barrabes/product.asp?pf_id=1428&idvariedad=4398. WELCOME TO THE CASCADECLIMBERS.COM FORUMS. Certainly the Silent Partner is smoother but it costs way too much. Although it must be hand fed, I could actually free climb harder because you can traverse and deep down know it's going to catch a head first screamer. I have to concur.