Four families in Vilarinho Seco pool their labor and equipment to plant potatoes in early spring, a common practice in the Barroso. Why would I want to leave a place like this?. The nine-year cycle of growing cork, Alentejos clock, is stubborn, slow moving, durable and just right. The result is a historic building thats Instagram-worthy inside and out. Its smoky and crowded inside Candelabro, but you wont find relief on the sidewalk, where patrons congregate, bottles of Super Bock beer (1.60 euros) in hand. As a subscriber, you have 10 gift articles to give each month. One of the defining features of the riverfront Belm district is the 16th-century Belm Tower. The cork is used in wine bottles, of course, as well as shoes, bags and other items, all of which are sold in local shops). The Alentejo area has long been known as one of the poorest and least populated parts of Western Europe, although its sandy soil is fertile. This cozy, narrow bar opened a few years ago with crowded tables, an emerald-tiled bar, and a variety of Portuguese craft beers try the Klsch from Lisbons Oitava Colina brewery. But even if it was good, what would I do with it? he said. Established in 2015, this specialty coffee purveyor operates two cafes that serve traditional shots as well as cold brews, pour-overs and frothy cappuccini. Then move on to the marinated dishes, like citrusy salmon with passion fruit, ginger and cilantro (9.60 euros), followed by Sobrals superlative version of amijoas Bulho Pato a steaming bowl of plump clams seasoned simply with lemon, garlic and more cilantro (17.50 euros). In the canon of Portuguese pastries, the most storied sweet is the pastis de nata, a flaky, palm-size tart with creamy egg-custard filling. A Porto landmark, the twin-towered cathedral, S do Porto (free admission), is a gorgeous amalgamation of architectural details from multiple centuries, beginning in the 12th. Start at the Graa Convent, whose tiled chapel and Baroque cloister opened to the public for the first time after recent restorations (free). At the onset of the coronavirus pandemic, with travel restrictions in place worldwide, we launched a new series The World Through a Lens in which photojournalists help transport you, virtually, to some of our planets most beautiful and intriguing places. Grndola is also home to a classic Portuguese restaurant, A Talha de Azeite, where some of the best dishes include Aorda de Bacalhau (a traditional Portuguese bread soup) and Arroz de Lingueiro (rice with razor clams). But there is not a single hotel in town. This area has a network of sandy trails that extend from the coast miles into the countryside. (The mosquitoes are also pretty overwhelming at night, as the village is built at the edge of a rice field). Its residents are sometimes dismissively (and wrongly) portrayed as simple and unsophisticated. Up the stairs at A Vida Portuguesa youll find colorful, nostalgic Portuguese products, from notebooks to cans of sardines, all with retro-style packaging intact. The title was a morale booster for residents, who benefited from the new status by highlighting the environmentally friendly way in which their products are made and promoting the region as a prime location for ecotourism. Madonna visited in 2017. Please upgrade your browser. Mile after mile after mile you can walk, uninterrupted. Catholic celebrations dictate the rhythm of life in the Barroso, with festivals and processions marking important points in the agriculture cycle. Follow New York Times Travel on Instagram, Twitter and Facebook. Getting permits to build anything here is extremely complicated, so despite plans to start work earlier this year, construction had not started as of August. Book ahead for lunch at Braso Cervejaria. A view of Lisbon from the Arco da Rua Augusta. Run by the knowledgeable and friendly Marco Ferreira and Clia Lino, Porto in a Bottle specializes in port from small producers. Mr. Gomess close friend Paulo Pires would be among those most affected if the mining plans proceed, since its processing site would be built a little more than a quarter mile from his property. The bilevel Ponte de Dom Lus I stretches from the Ribeira section of Porto over the River Douro to Vila Nova de Gaia. Squirreled away on the Terraos do Carmo, Topo Chiado is an open-air lounge serving cocktails to tables overlooking the castle and the neo-Gothic, wrought-iron Santa Justa Lift. The best meal we had in Melides was the roast chicken we bought from the butcher on the town square. Everyone knows this can hardly last: rich people descending on a pristine rural community in search of their own piece of nature and solitude. In an impressive show of reverse colonization, Brazil has taken over a magnificent mansion in Prncipe Real. Andr Vieira is a photographer based in Portugal. Melides also served as a great launching point for day trips throughout the Alentejo region, including Comporta. Rio Maravilha, a new fourth-floor hangout in the resurgent LX Factory area, offers dazzling views of the Tagus River and the 25 de Abril Bridge. Opened last year in a historic building formerly occupied by the consulate of Brazil, Le Consulat is a sophisticated hotel with eight spacious suites decorated with artworks culled from top Lisbon galleries, and views across the lovely Cames square in the central Chiado district (Praa Lus de Cames 22; 351-212-427-470; leconsulat.pt; from about 200 euros). With attractive Art Nouveau architecture and prime locations in plazas, parks and scenic overlooks throughout the city, these popular kiosks are natural gathering points from sunup to sundown. Portos best bars are also its most relaxed. Vilarinho is in one of the highest parts of the Barroso, at about 3,300 feet above sea level, in the middle of a windswept plateau. It also has a growing list of luxury boutique hotels nearby, such Quinta da Comporta and Sublime Comporta.But today Comporta feels like a mini-version of the Hamptons: luxury cars fill the busy streets, couples in bohemian-style outfits walk among the art galleries, housewares stores, nightclubs and outdoor bars. They talk about the jobs that will be created, but they dont realize that those are much less than the livelihoods that will be destroyed.. I dont exist. Theres also a collection of portraits of Pessoa fittingly, in diverse styles including paintings by Jlio Pomar. Check out the excellent local design at Feeting Room, a chic concept store selling clothes and accessories, including beautiful leather goods by the Porto brand Maria Maleta. As I turned away from the ocean, what could I see? Maria Emilia da Silva kneads dough to bake bread for her family at the villages community oven in Covas do Barroso. My first acquaintance in town was Elias Coelho, the patriarch of one of the oldest families in the village. A brightly trimmed house on the main street of Porto Covo, a fishing village known for its beaches. The lascas de bacalhau is a deconstructed fish-and-chips, the cod flaked and mixed with eggs cooked at low temperature and exploding olives that melt in the mouth. Confeitaria Serrana, a family-run bakery for over 40 years, serves the citys best bola de Berlim (1.10 euros, or $1.16 at $1.06 to the euro), a dose of custard sandwiched in a sugar-dusted roll. Life here was very hard. Meals begin with bread and butter flavored with Iberian ham; follow this with the steak tartare and fresh potato chips, or stewed gizzards. Mealtime after a pig slaughter at the home of Paulo Pires in Covas do Barroso. The rustic tiled floors, wooden accents and stone walls make it look as if its been around forever, but it opened in 2014 and has had the locals lining up for its well-executed Portuguese cuisine ever since. Its one of the nations most isolated areas, known for its harsh climate, rough terrain and stunning beauty. Each of its five rooms is different, but all feature wooden floors and a modern aesthetic. Boticas, the other municipality, managed to make it into November without a single infection. The slaughter is a communal event, drawing the help of neighbors and friends. Ancient Catholic rites have combined with the cultural vestiges from the many other peoples who, over several centuries, have found their way to the region: Visigoths, Celts, Romans, the soldiers of Napoleons army. Portugal, once the seat of one of the richest empires in the world, has been beset in recent history by deep poverty, especially in the countryside. In late 2017, tired of living in post-Olympic Rio de Janeiro, I decided to move to Portugal, where photography became my way of getting to know a country which, despite my family origins, I knew only superficially. The beachside Sal restaurant in Carvalhal along the Alentejo coast of Portugal has become a jet-setters hangout. If theres a line outside A Cevicheria, a popular Peruvian restaurant opened by the chef Kiko Martins in 2014, order a frothy pisco sour and wait its worth it. The truth is that their profound attachment to their land and traditions makes Trs os Montes one of the most culturally unique parts of the country. But the large Barroso diaspora, which returns each summer from all over the globe to the place they still call home, was also affected. Melides (pronounced Melidesh) and the rest of the Alentejo coast which starts about an hour south of Lisbon and runs about 90 miles down to the southwestern Portugal town of Odeceixe is what St. Tropez used to be in the 1950s, before Brigitte Bardot, or Ibiza, before the first wave of summer partyers ever heard of the Mediterranean hot spot. Finally, on sea level, as you turn in both directions, as far as you can see, there is nothing but a vast empty reach of beach and the occasional fisherman with a pole planted in the sand, or a sprinkling of families with beach umbrellas. Related Article. For more al fresco night life, venture west to Rio Maravilha, a new fourth-floor hangout in the resurgent LX Factory area. Well, we are the ones who chose to stay and raise our families here. A pristine stream courses through it, and seemingly every house has an orchard full of grapevines and persimmon trees. Follow NY Times Travel on Twitter, Instagram and Facebook. The Ponte de Dom Lus I stretches from the Ribeira section of Porto over the River Douro to Vila Nova de Gaia. Nearly all offer tours, but its the views of Porto and the bustling Ribeira waterfront that are the most spectacular feature. A short walk from the station are two establishments patronized by Portos sweets-loving citizens. Break here for a sandwich of black Iberian pork cooked for 12 hours and slicked with basil mayo, or a barbecued chicken sandwich with homemade pickles or French fries garnished with rosemary, and throw in a glass of wine for 2 euros. From its stunning Beaux-Arts station to its cool bars serving Portos signature drink, this charming city combines the best of old and new. Portugal, in general, is a laid-back place, compared to much of Europe. (It looks laid back, but it was also recently featured in Architectural Digest.). The old canary-yellow trams still rattle along steep hills, and youll never pay more than a euro and change for a pastis de nata, the classic Portuguese pastry. Lisbons night life reached new heights when a wave of rooftop bars opened around the city. On the menu, youll find ceviches and causas, smaller dishes to share, including an excellent barbecued roast octopus with black mashed potatoes. The menu lists over 50 varieties of gin and tonic, served Spanish-style in bulbous glasses. Elias Coelho, at right, chats with a neighbors visiting relative (and her son) in the streets of Vilarinho Seco, as a group of cows arrive from the fields. Here we make everything at home, he proudly explained, pouring wine into my glass. There are no other children close to their age for them to play with, but most grown-ups seem to take the responsibility of looking after them as they freely roam around the village. Residents of Vilarinho Seco sing and drink after a religious procession. In inclement weather, take cover at Cerveteca Lisboa, a quiet beer bar across the street pouring hard-to-find brews from Portuguese craft breweries, like Dois Corvos and Passarola Brewing. Porto at sunset, with the cathedral at left and the Dom Lus I bridge at right. On the way, you pass a dazzling collection of reddish, weathered sandstones, which look like abstract sculptures. And sign up for our weekly Travel Dispatch newsletter to receive expert tips on traveling smarter and inspiration for your next vacation. Over a century old, the interior of the Beaux-Arts building is decorated with azulejos, the exquisite blue and white tiles for which Portugal is famous. On the third floor is a hugely impressive collection of cameras from every decade, including some fabulous espionage cameras from the 60s, 70s and 80s that are disguised as rolls of sweets, cans of Pepsi and packets of Marlboros. Instead of a sit-down dinner, try out a few of the newest places. Thankfully, the GPS on my phone still worked, as I got lost once one morning on these unmarked trails. Comporta is still an appealing place today, with its own nearby beach and great places to eat, such as Cavalarica Comporta, and a lively night-life scene. His first Porto venture, Cantinho do Avillez, draws tourists and locals for its creative dishes that combine techniques drawn from molecular gastronomy with the ingredients that define Portuguese cuisine. The Centro Comercial Bombarda doesnt open until noon, but this collection of small shops and restaurants on the gallery-thronged Rua da Bombarda is heaven for shoppers looking for boutiques crammed with goods from homegrown designers. Visit both buildings to explore contemporary art installations, interactive science exhibits and video works displayed amid the plants hulking, well-preserved machinery (admission, 9 euros). But it is the setting itself that is unrivaled. Mr. Pires is one of the few residents of Covas who raises sheep instead of cattle. Soon the village was full of life, with neighbors greeting each other in their muddy boots and wet clothes, taking time for a chat before heading home to sit around the fire, have dinner and end another hard day of work. Globally Important Agricultural Heritage Systems.. Half living room, half shop, Mercado 48 has the kind of souvenirs that youll be proud to show off at home, like the modern cork-and-ceramic teapots and mugs, glazed in a variety of colors, that give a nod to Portugals history of cork production. One must-order dish is the transportive ceviche puro of white fish in lime juice with red onion, tigers milk and rich dollops of mashed sweet potato crowned with sweet-potato chips. He seemed to have something to discuss with everyone who walked by. The White Box House (Rua de Santa Catarina 575; the-white-box.pt; doubles from 50 euros, including breakfast) is within walking distance of the city center. Just a block away, French-speaking visitors waltzed into the row of recently opened boutiques selling designer dresses and bikinis, next to the site where the French shoe designer Christian Louboutin is preparing to build this towns first hotel. Ascend the elegant staircase, which is circled by a flock of yellow stuffed parrots, to explore the maze of rooms that recently displayed Lenny Niemeyers fashionable swimsuits, orange-trimmed Panama hats from Frescobol Carioca, bars of Rios Q chocolate, and exquisite polished-wood armchairs designed by Srgio Rodrigues. The latter takes a page from other European capitals see Londons Tate Modern and Romes Centrale Montemartini by repurposing a former power plant, in addition to that newly constructed exhibition hall encased in gleaming white tile, for showcasing world-class art. The faded Old Europe charm remains, but with a stream of exciting openings and fresh inspiration drawn from across the Atlantic, Lisbon seems primed for a new golden era. Most of the pastures where they graze are either collectively owned by the village or located on the areas wild mountainsides, much of which, he said, might be affected or destroyed by the mine. I have been traveling all my life and I have not seen a place in Europe that is this untouched, Ms. Cinzano, who built a rustic, seaside home here, said in an interview. The landscape is extraordinary and verdant, even in the dry months, Mr. Martin said. Then you climb down a precarious set of stairs built into the sandstone cliff, before you reach the beach. Women cook inside an old kitchen in Covas do Barroso while sausages hang overhead. To survive the unforgiving geography, residents of the Barroso have, over time, developed a complex farming system that relies on the collective management of the water, forests and pastures used by their animals. Colorful Portuguese wares line the shelves at A Vida Portuguesa. That is why I was glad we had ended up staying a bit farther south near Melides, a simple town of about 1,500 residents, four or so restaurants, a church and a few small stores and a supermarket. Lunch for two, around 18 euros. From the cork fields, we reached the picture-perfect town of Evora, built by the Romans and later taken over by the Moors which has a second-century Roman temple and Portugals largest medieval cathedral, along with restaurants, bars and stores. Start with a glass of Douro branco and paper-thin octopus carpaccio topped with cilantro, sweet potato chips and a drizzle of olive oil (13.50 euros). For something stronger, continue down the street to Gin Lovers, an elegant back-room bar within a 19th-century palace-turned-shopping complex. Its now dealing with an outbreak of around 30 cases. If you do plan a trip to Lisbon, check out these suggestions on what to pack for the trip from our colleagues at Wirecutter.